When you plan a trip to the Boundary Waters in early March and do not actually leave for that trip until the very end of June, you have a lot of time to get excited, especially if you have never been there before: plenty of time to pack and un-pack a tackle box, plenty of time to dream about what you will see and what you will catch, plenty of time to lose a lot of sleep because you are dreaming too much about what you are going to see and what you are going to catch.
I recently had the honor of experiencing three full days in the Boundary Waters while staying at Timber Trail Resort just outside of Ely, Minnesota. During my stay I witnessed this pristine area's beauty, its remarkable fishing, and its fascinating ability to make good friends of perfect strangers.
I arrived at Timber Trail on a windy Wednesday afternoon in late June and checked in. I was welcomed by the mount of a legendary fish said to swim the waters of Farm Lake on which the Resort resides. It is a mythical beast with the body of a Northern Pike, the mouth and eyes of a Wolf, and crowning fin atop its head.
I was soon greeted by the glowing smile of Marge Forsberg, one of the owners of the resort. Her husband Bill was out walking the grounds talking with other vacationers staying at the resort. I retrieved my key, unpacked, and decided to take a walk around the resort where I soon realized that I was "not in Kansas anymore."
Timber Trail resort lies just outside the Boundary Waters on Farm Lake, a lake with no regulations on boat or motor size. However, on the opposite shoreline begins the vast expanse of wilderness known as the Boundary Waters, a region of indescribable beauty.
My stroll led me to the fish-cleaning shack where I found a gentleman cleaning the morning's catch. No doubt, asking how the fishing was would have received a "here's your sign" response from comedian Bill Engvall, as I could see without even asking that the day's fishing had been pretty good. On the table lay several nice walleye, perfect eating size.
The person cleaning the fish, a highly respected guide from the Ely Fishing Guide Company, was Rob Nelson. It was Rob who I first contacted to arrange for this three-day trip to shoot Hot Bite Fishing episodes. My goal: to show the many ways to have a great time in the most beautiful part of the state.
Cameraman Darin Ingalls and I met Rob early the next morning for the part of the trip I was most excited about. We were going to portage North several lakes where I could match wits with my favorite fish that swims our waters: the Smallmouth Bass. The weather forecast predicted light showers in the early morning and light and variable winds throughout the day--perfect weather for taking a canoe back in the deep woods. It would have been perfect if that had actually happened.
Instead, Rob and I battled 20+ mph winds and rain most of the day, not exactly the best conditions for fishing, and even worse for obtaining camera footage for a Hot Bite Fishing Show. We arrived at our destination after a lengthy trek through lakes and deep woods on a thin winding trial just wide enough for three guys to walk single file while pushing and pulling a canoe rigged with wheels. When the trees finally parted revealing the lake, I could hardly contain myself.
Rigged with only three rods, one tackle box, and a few plastics I stepped into the front of the canoe as the rain continued to fall on my rain gear. Rob explained that the fish here would not be any different from any other smallie trip I had ever taken. Typical lures like small jigs and twister tails, small spinners like a Mepps #3, or small crankbaits would catch the fish. Wind made it impossible to fish one entire shoreline of the lake, so we headed down the other. On my third cast with a top water popper I hooked a decent fish.
It turned out to be about a four pound Northern, not the desired species, yet it was something pulling back on the other end of my line. By the time we had reached the opposite end of the lake we had caught no less than 70 smallmouth and largemouth bass, maybe more, the largest of which was a fat 19" smallie. I was actually quite surprised to see as many largemouth bass as we did. Rob even pointed out it was more than he is used to seeing on this lake as well, but I was not complaining one bit.
Darrin Ingalls our cameraman got lucky. Due to the bad weather, he was able to do quite a bit of fishing and less filming. It was he who hooked into the largest fish of the trip: a largemouth that would have easily tipped the scales over five pounds. However, his six-pound test and the abundant shoreline wood was not a match for the strong fish, and after a long 30-second battle, the fish won and broke his line.
Two casts latter Darin lost a large smallmouth the exact same way. It ate at his heart, but it was still awesome to see the fish we were capable of catching in the Boundary Waters. By days end the rain had stopped long enough to offer time to get enough footage for an interesting Hot Bite adventure, and I have to say that the portage back to the resort seemed shorter even though I was tired from a day on the water battling the wind and rain yet assuredly much less tired than Rob who had done the lion's share of the paddling that day. Needless to say I was looking forward to the comfort of my room at Timber Trail and the warm embrace of a dry pillow.
Day two began even earlier. Rob stated that reaching our destination would take well over an hour of several portages with his 14 foot boat and 20 hp engine. It's quite an experience to take a boat rigged with motorcycle wheels out of a perfectly good fishing lake and put it in another, only to take it out of that perfectly good lake and put it in yet another.
There are a few lakes in the Boundary Waters which allow for motors as long as they are under 25 hp. It was on one of these lakes that we searched for walleye. Trolling crankbaits, lindy rigging, and jigs and twister tails were the techniques for the day.
I was expecting that because of engines and small boats being allowed on this lake we would see quite a few other boats and expected it to be less beautiful. How wrong I was. I must admit it's very hard to concentrate on fishing when you are so taken back by the beauty around you. We maybe saw a handful of boats the entire day with the majority of them being canoes.
Lindy rigging a transition area from rock to sand in 20 feet of water yielded more than enough fish for a shore lunch, something you must do if you are ever there. We just pulled up to one of the unused campsites, stretched our legs, and filled our bellies. Again, we were spoiled by Rob's hard work. The rest of the afternoon offered more of the same: more awesome beauty, more walleyes pulling on the end of our lines, more of my mind drifting off wondering how it took me this long to ever make this trip.
Day three marked the end of our grand slam (a canoe trip, a portage trip, and a big boat trip): a trip in Rob's "cadillac", a twenty foot Warrior on the chain of lakes connected to Timber Trail Resort. I must say that after two days of being cramped in a canoe and boat, Rob's Warrior seemed like an air-craft carrier. We managed quite a few more walleyes, a jig and a crawler or leech over a rock pile in 20 feet of water was the ticket.
In the three plus days I was at the resort, I had many opportunities to talk to Bill and Marge, owners of Timber Trail, and fell in love with them and the place they own. Bill was nice enough to take me on a tour of the grounds which include a motel-like area, cabins, fish cleaning shacks, and what one can only describe as a palace in the woods.
They have a few cabins that make my house look small--one can sleep up to sixteen people at one time. I toured one of the cabins that slept eight, and I use the word "cabin" very loosely here. Two stories, three bedrooms, all knotty pine on the inside, a fireplace and a whirlpool tub made this seem like more a house than a cabin.
Also, sharing a boat with Rob Nelson of Ely Fishing Guide Company for three days was a complete joy. Rob is a true professional and a wonderful person, a feeling that was not just my own but shared by the many people I talked to at the resort who expressed some bitterness toward me for taking three days in a row with him, hogging him all to myself!
Thanks to all those mentioned above, my three days in the Boundary Waters resulted in a dream trip, new friendships, and a deep desire to return again as soon as possible.